September is the month of harvest, a time to enjoy collecting crops and thinking about which ones we want to grow again next year. Then, by the end of October, it’s time to clear the remnants of summer crops, prepare overwintering crops and make plans for the next growing season. Time to think about what to grow for the next season, how to prepare the soil, and which seeds to order
It’s time to start storing equipment for the winter and think about tools that might have come in useful over the year and that you can add to your Christmas lists.
There are crops to harvest, preserve and store – a good time freeze beans and make chutneys, jellies and pickles. When you’ve used all that you can from your crops, any plant waste can be added to your compost heap to rot down over the winter. You can also take advantage of hedgerow crops to take advantage of – see the recipe for sloe syrup which can be poured over ice creams and other desserts or added to a glass of gin (for a result that’s very much like sloe gin).
There can still be hot, cold, wet, or dry spells so keep an eye on the weather forecast and water or protect your plants as necessary.
Late summer/early autumn is a good time to improve the water resilience of our plots by applying mulches around the base of plants when the soil is relatively wet and warm, Biodegradable mulches (garden compost, wood chippings, well-rotted manure, etc.) gradually release nutrients and improve the condition of the soil. Non biodegradable materials (e.g. shingle or fabric sheets) allow water to reach roots and suppress weed growth.
For ideas on how to cook and preserve your crops see our Seasonal Recipes.
Squash and chard are ready to harvest from late summer

Plant c Spinach, spring onions, spring cabbage, garlic, herbs and salad crops.
Longcroft Allotment Association's Seasonal Recipes web page

Prune soft fruits,
Pick off any rotting fruit,
Plant out strawberry runners.
Hard fruit, cabbages, beetroot, onions, maincrop potatoes, French and runner beans, sweet corn, squash, tomatoes, chard, turnips.

Salad crops develop quickly, and there are a wide variety – sorrel, lettuce, endive, kale, radicchio and mustard leaves - to suit various conditions.
They can be grown in seed drills, broadcast over an area of ground or grown in containers. Either way, they offer a fresh and tasty alternative to bags of supermarket salads.
As salad crops can outgrow weeds, watering and pests are the main concerns for salad growers. Watering every two days may be necessary during long dry spells if salad crops are grown in compost rich beds (daily watering may be necessary if they are grown in small pots).
Slugs are the main pest, and can be treated with pellets, nematodes, or regular picking off. Ants and aphids can also be a problem – ants can be kept in check if the surrounding soil is kept moist. Aphids can be squashed by hand if they are not tackled by ladybirds or beetles.
Regular collect leaves when they are ready to harvest. If leaves start to sag after harvesting they can be recovered by soaking in cold water.
A well planned plot will have some well-developed brassicas as we head towards winter: various types of kale, cabbage, sprouts and broccoli. Give them a helping hand by:


Chitting Potatoes
February is time to prepare seed potatoes for planting by ‘chitting’ them – storing them in such a way that they start to sprout before being planted in the ground.
The potatoes should be spread out over a single layer in a cool, dry place which is free from the risk of frost. Large, unused egg boxes are ideal for this, allowing air circulation between each seed potato.
Ideally the storage area should be bright but the seed potatoes should be out of direct sunlight. After a few days the potatoes will then grow short stubby shoots which will help the potato plants to grow when they are planted out to get them off to a fast start when planted out. St Patrick’s Day is the traditional day of the year to plant potatoes.
There is some evidence that you can grow larger potatoes by breaking off the weaker shoots just before planting, leaving only the three or four stronger shoots to grow.