GREENER FINGERS - Sustainable Gardening

We all have a moral duty to behave in sustainable way across all aspects of our lives.

Growing our own food provides many opportunities in this respect. For example, our plots provide diverse habitats for wildlife (particularly insects) which can be further enhanced by restricting our use of chemical pesticides. By generating our own compost and using local sources of manure we can reduce our reliance on man-made fertilisers. These, and similar practices lead to healthier soils on allotment sites than those found on farmland with modern commercial agricultural processes;

The following sections describes ways in which you can grow crops without harming the environment and, in many instances, making a positive contribution to it.

People think about having an allotment for different reasons and a key issue is enjoying the process of growing while enabling my family to eat vegetables that were free of chemicals.

There is a lot of research now to suggest that the overuse of chemicals in farming generally is not good for human health and is also having an effect on wildlife. The organic method places importance on looking after your soil. Growing plants takes nutrients out of the soil and you will need to replace these regularly.

ORGANIC GARDENING

Organic gardening uses techniques which occur naturally – the word ’organic’ describes living organisms.

People think about having an allotment for different reasons and a key issue is enjoying the process of growing while enabling my family to eat vegetables that were free of chemicals.

Some people think that organically grown food tastes better but the proven benefits are safer growing (by using fewer potentially toxic pesticides and fertilisers) and protecting/encouraging wildlife. It can also reduce waste where compost is used by recycling kitchen and/or gardening waste.

Organic gardening includes the following:

Using natural mulches to restrict weed growth and retain soil moisture
Using organic manures and peat-free compost
Capturing and storing rainwater
Cultivation processes with reduced or no digging
Plant to encourage beneficial predators: birds, insects (ladybirds, wasps, lacewings…) and reptiles (frogs, toads and slow worms)
Companion planting – plants which benefit each other (e.g. the onion family can be grown with carrots to deter carrot fly)
Using green manure over winter to keep the soil warm and retain moisture

It is not easy to be wholly organic but applying some of the principles will help to establish a natural balance on your plot.

For more information see www.gardenorganic.org.uk.

Reduced Peat Compost

At the LAA shop we have made the decision to move away from the current 100% peat-based Clover

compost to a reduced peat formulation which also contains loam. This is slightly more expensive, but the

Association’s view is that, in terms of its impact on the environment, moving away from peat makes sense. In

addition, advice from our stockist, HSL, is that the reduced peat mix is actually a better growing medium.

Peat is the accumulation (over many centuries) of decaying sphagnum moss which has grown in bogs. Peat

bogs provide a unique habitat for many rare indigenous species of flora and fauna. Peat, in its natural setting, is also a natural carbon store - when harvested, the exposed peat oxidises releasing carbon dioxide to

the atmosphere. Also, because of their water retaining property, peat bogs soaking up excess rainfall and

reduce the risk of local flooding.

Non-commercial gardeners account for approximately two thirds of peat used in the UK but the government

intends to ban the sale of peat-based compost in garden centres from 2024. Peat-free and reduced-peat

composts are becoming increasingly available, using a mixture of sustainable organic materials such as wood

fibre, bark, coir, composted garden waste and - less commonly - re-cycled cardboard, straw, sterilised soil,

vermiculite, perlite, grit, manure and wool. The ability of these products to retain water differs from that of

peat (some can retain more water, others less) and so may require less/more frequent watering.

All composts are supplemented by the addition of fertilisers, so products with reduced-peat content need

not affect plant growth. In fact, of all the compost that the Royal Horticultural Society now uses in its

gardens, only two per cent now contains peat (see www.rhs.org.uk/peat for more information).

Successful Harvesting Using Less Water

Water is essential to crop growth but it is a precious resource and there are steps we should take to ensure that it is not wasted.

The timing and nature of watering is critical. Watering around the base of the plant will ensure that moisture quickly and effectively reaches the roots. The best time to water crops is in the evening or very early morning when the air is cooler. Occasional (approximately weekly) thorough watering is better than more frequent light watering because it soaks the soil encouraging deeper root growth in each plant's search for moisture.

Applying organic matter around the base of plants helps to retain moisture and to insulate the soil from high air temperatures. As the mulch encourages bacteria and other organisms and so it will eventually decompose, improving soil structure and enhancing plant growth in future seasons.

Not all plants need the same amount of water, and some plants need more/less water at various stages of their growth cycle. The National Society of Allotment Society web-site contains specific considerations for a range of commonly grown crops:

https://www.nsalg.org.uk/growing-advice/gardening-advice/water-use-on-allotments/

Also, planting in blocks rather than rows can make watering easier and reduces water loss - the water escaping from each plant will provide some benefit to neighbouring crops. In the case of sweetcorn, planting in blocks helps with pollination.

Finally, we should all harvest as much rainwater as possible. For more information see the panel below and the Aug 2015 and Sep 2012 newsletters.

The 'No Dig' Method

Soil is a living mixture of diverse organisms and works better when it’s not disrupted. No-dig gardening can bring many benefits to your plot and is gentler on your back than traditional methods of growing vegetables. Nutrient rich materials – compost, manure, etc. – are applied at normal rates but only at the surface of the soil. Worms and other organisms do the work of bringing the nutrients into the ground.

The basic requirements are:

Avoid treading on areas where plants will be grown – this generally requires beds to be no wider than 1.2m (4’)
Regularly apply organic matter – well rotted horse manure, spent mushroom compost or maybe garden compost - over the ground surface to a depth of about three inches compost, manure and mulches
Apply nutrient rich fertilisers in the spring when plants are growing at their fastest and the weather is less likely to wash them away
Gently ruffle the surface when preparing seed beds
When beginning beds, apply opaque coverings (cardboard, carpets or sheeting) to kill of any weeds
Beds that can be reached easily from both sides, avoiding the need to tread on growing areas
Regularly hoe out any weeds, and Hoe in – rather than dig over – any green manures

Earthworms, bacteria and fungi, all of which contribute to healthy soil, can be adversely affected by disturbance such as digging and by compacting soil. Most soil life is closest to the surface, and digging can bring poorer quality soil to the surface. Digging can also help seeds from weeds to find ideal conditions for growth.

Hugelkultur (“No-Dig Cultivation on Steroids”)

Hugelkultur (a German word meaning hill culture) is a method of growing crops by constructing a mound of organic matter, topped with soil. It is an extreme version of the No-Dig method of cultivation and applies the same principles as raised beds. The structure includes logs and branches (most types of soft and hard wood are suitable) plus a mixture of leaves, wood-chip, grass clippings, straw (sometimes straw bales are used), manure, compost and other organic matter. Over the years they naturally break down to produce a rich soil/compost.

The advantages of hugelkultur include:

The slow decay of wood provides long-term source of nutrients for the plants (typically for more than 10 years).
The decomposition of the mound generates heat within the soil which aids plant growth.
The course nature of the underground structure (logs and sticks) facilitates soil aeration without the need to dig.
The logs and branches retain moisture, reducing the need to water plants – a particular advantage over dry summer spells.
The high proportion of organic matter in the growing medium means that weeds are easily removed.
The curve of the mound provides a greater surface area than level ground allowing more crops to be grown.

The basis of the mound is a 30cm (1ft) deep trench filled with logs and branches covered by either inverted turf or a layer of soil. Vertical logs which extend above ground level will give the bed extra height.

During the first year of the bed, the decomposition of the logs draws nitrogen from the surrounding material. This can be abated by covering the logs with nitrogen rich lawn clippings and/or growing legumes in the first year which fix nitrogen in the soil.

For more information see https://www.permaculture.co.uk/articles/many-benefits-hugelkultur.

(with thanks to Sam Miller, Broadwater)

Compost

Good compost is invaluable.

Compost introduces nutrients to support plant growth. It lightens heavy soils, helps soils to retain moisture, and helps control plant diseases.

Compost falls into two broad categories: garden compost and potting compost.

Garden Compost

Garden compost refers to the material that we can all produce when we gather kitchen and garden waste and leave it to decompose. Home-made compost ideally contains equal amounts of green materials (grass cuttings, fruit and vegetable peelings, young plants, animal manure, etc. which have a high nitrogen content) and brown materials (leaves, straw/hay, woody shoots, cardboard and paper).

As the vegetable matter rots it generates heat. The heat accelerates the decomposition process resulting in rich, dark organic matter that can be dug into the soil or applied as a mulch. Adding materials such as nettles, comfrey and urine to compost can also help to accelerate the process. Oxygen is a key element in the decomposition process and garden compost should be periodically turned with a fork to introduce air.

Making compost helps the environment: reducing numbers of bonfires, cutting down on waste, and reducing demand for manufactured products. It can also provide a habitat for hedgehogs, beetles and slow-worms, many of which feed on slugs act as natural pest controllers, reducing the need for chemical pesticides.

Potting Compost

Potting compost is the bagged material that we get from garden centres (and The Shed!). Bagged compost is available in several forms to serve specific purpose – multi-purpose compost can be used at all stages in the growing cycle, seed compost is designed to assist germination, ericaceous compost is designed for plants which prefer acid soils, tomatoes and strawberries are planted directly in grow bags. Peat free compost is widely recognised as being more environmentally sustainable than those containing peat.

Mulch Ado...

A good way to replace nutrients without chemical fertilisers is to spread organic material such as well rotted horse manure, spent mushroom compost or maybe garden compost over the ground surface.

Mulch is the name given to this thick layer of organic matter which absorbs rainfall, reduces evaporation and keeps the soil warm. Ideally it should be at least 10cm (4”) thick, but as this would dwarf small seedlings it can be applied in layers.

The first layer should be overlapping card or newspaper applied around any established plants. This layer’s job us to block out light and suppress weeds. Weed control fabric could be applied as an alternative.

This layer is then covered with plant matter to keep it in place: grass cuttings, leaves, compost, wood chip, straw and small non-pernicious weeds (without seeds) are all ideal. This is the layer which is most effective at moderating the temperature and moisture content of the soil

The deeper the layers the better but you should aim to cover the soil to a depth of about three inches. More good news is that you don’t have to dig in the organic matter into your ground. All you do is sit back and allow worms to take the material down into the soil and for all the beneficial bacteria present to process it so it can be absorbed by whatever plants you are going to grow.

The other benefit of applying a mulch is that the soil structure is much improved, opening up the ground to the penetration of water and making it much easier to plant things into it. You could aim to apply a mulch as often as possible even when you have plants growing but in any event you should do it at least once a year either after the growing season has ended, around the end of October, or perhaps in early spring.

Wood Chip

How does woodchip benefit our plots and how should it be used?

Woodchip is typically applied to the surface of beds, enhancing the ability of the soil to retain moisture, moderating fluctuations in soil temperature, inhibiting weeds (for which the best time to apply is in the early spring, before weeds have become established), and reducing soil compaction. The woodchip particles are usually of various sizes which break down by natural fungi at different rates – so their benefits are long-lasting and, over this time, they provide diverse conditions for soil bacteria and other organisms. When broken down worms will draw the decomposed woodchip into the soil and this will increase the water holding potential and improve soil structure.

Freshly produced woodchip can be usefully applied around established plants but some types of woodchip contain compounds which inhibit germination and growth in newly planted crops. This can usefully restrict weed growth when applied to paths but, before application on seed beds, woodchip should generally be stored until it decomposes to produce a dark humus peat like material. For those with an interest in organic gardening such storage will also allow any chemical fertilisers/pesticides that may have been applied to the source wood to break down.

For more information see the following links:

https://www.rhs.org.uk/soil-composts-mulches/woody-waste-using-as-mulch

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/mulch/bark-mulch-in-gardens.htm

Plant Diversity

Growing many different types of plant close together creates several small natural ecosystems which, in turn, creates habitats for a wide range of creatures. This increases the chances of encouraging natural predators and helps to ensure that no single pest population is large enough to create problems.

Growing different plants together – companion planting – brings other benefits. For example, carrot flies are attracted by the smell of young carrot plants, but if strong-scented herbs or garlic/onions are growing amongst the carrots the carrot fly become confused.

A good approach is to plant some flowering plants between crops. Generally, these will attract hoverfly and ladybirds and occasionally bring further advantages – Cabbage White butterflies prefer to lay their eggs on Nasturtiums rather than cabbage plants, thus providing a natural decoy.

Other parts of the allotment can also support wildlife – log piles provide shelter predatory insects and compost heaps are ideal habitats for beetles and centipedes and provide a warm, safe haven for slow worms and hedgehogs.

Further information is available from the Br6thers web-site - https://sixbrotherspestcontrol.com/garden-pests-natural-guide/)

Encouraging Insects

Allotments are great places for biodiversity and an important element of this is the support they provide to insects, and the contribution that insects make in return.

Insects are essential for pollination, decomposition and pest control. Ladybirds, wasps, hoverflies and lacewings prey on aphids and beetles and centipedes feed on slugs, slugs’ eggs and other small insects.

Insects also help work the soil and also play an important part of the food chain. Birds and other animals feed on insects and these animals also control pests, disperse seeds, etc.

We may be guilty of taking for granted the free services that insects provide so we should help them by providing environments which provide shelter, and by planting crops that provide them with nectar during their barren times of year.

Local Manure

Manure is a great way of improving soil condition, available from the following local sources...

Raybrook Riding, Bluebridge Road, Brookmans Park, AL9 7SX. Various ages of manure bagged for collection plus a “heap” which may be excavated. Parking for cars and trailers but please telephone before you arrive to check on availability. There is no charge, but donations to Horse Rescue are welcome.

Welwyn Equestrian Centre, Arnolds Farm, Pottersheath Road, Welwyn, Herts, AL6 9SZ. They have two manure heaps which can be excavated for collection but you will need to supply your own bags and call the centre to notify them you are coming.

Riding for the Disabled, Rectory Road, Welwyn Garden City (opposite The Red Lion pub on the B197). Collect it yourself and you can make a donation to the charity on your visit.

Green Manures

Autumn is the time to plant green manures. These plants tend to grow quickly and either scavenge nutrients that otherwise might be washed out of the soil or take nitrogen from the atmosphere and transfer it to the soil through their root systems. The roots also improve the structure of the soil, and green manures also prevent weed growth by blocking out light to growing weedlings.

The main types of green manures are listed below:

Clovers can help to fix nitrogen within the soil - should be planted between April and August.
Winter Tares (also known as vetches) is a good source of nitrogen and should be planted by September.
Phacelia (March - September) and Lupins (March - June) produce flowers which support bees and other insects as well as boosting the soil.
Italian or Hungarian ryes (August – October) are good to smother areas that have become overgrown with weeds and grows well through winter (but can provide shelter for slugs and snails).
Field beans can be planted as late as November and are good for heavy soils.
Mustard should be planted by the end of September and should be dug in after up to two month’s growth (or left as a mulch if the foliage is frost damaged).
Mexican marigolds (Tagetes Minuta) can be used as a green manure but its greatest benefit is that it suppresses bindweed and is best sown in spring.

Dig green manures into the soil in the spring while they are still soft and they add nutrients to the soil and enhance the activity of worms and other wildlife below the surface of the soil. Leave for at least two weeks before planting out crops.

Companion Crops

We often think about our crops in isolation, not thinking about how plants interact. In fact, many plants can affect others by attracting insects, repelling pests, and using complementary nutrients.

Some crops grow well together because of the shape and size, root structure, and need for light. Climbing beans and sunflowers, tomato and fennel, and other combinations are bad neighbours. However, onions can grow happily alongside beans, leeks can be grown amongst celery, and turnips can be grown with peas.

Tomatoes are believed to deter asparagus beetle, onions and other alliums can reduce attack by carrot fly. Cabbage root fly is dissuaded by herbs such as mint, rosemary or sage.

Native Americans believed that crops would thrive if they grew squashes alongside sweetcorn plants, and planted climbing beans in between, which grew up on the sweet corn plants, using the stems like canes while fixing nitrogen amongst its roots. This system known as the Three Sisters which is now scientifically understood to be a sustainable method of growing a nutritious combination of crops.

Rainwater Harvesting at Broadwater

Those of you on who use the Broadwater site will have seen that over the last few weeks I have added an ”extension” to the replacement shed I recently put up, and I have been asked to write a few words about what I have done and why.

Having read that rainwater is more suitable for plants than the tap water that supplies the troughs on site, and knowing that I would be replacing an old shed, my initial intention was reposition at a location that would allow me to collect some from its roof of the shed for use on my own plot. I was then given a large water butt for free.

That was the plan. However, at the AGM I watched the presentation on rainwater collection by Louise Humphreys from Welwyn Hatfield Borough Council and the presentation on water resilience by Sam and Kate from the LAA Committee, it sparked further ideas. Their PowerPoint presentations included several examples of free-standing pent roofs being used as an extra area to collect more rain water. They also referenced one allotment holder who uses a minimal amount of water, but still produced good crops. So, I thought I would try and do the same. Also, not liking to throw anything away (I call it recycling - my wife calls it hoarding!), I thought I would see if I could use parts of the old shed that I had replaced to help me create something similar. So, I changed my original plan.

I would need some supports to hold up a roof to catch extra water. The result, four posts and two bags of Postcrete later, was a structure onto which I could attach the old shed roof complete with its felt. Not wanting to waste the space beneath. I used the side and back of the old shed walls and back to create a surround for a compost bin and storage space for the plastic piping that I used as support for netting over vulnerable plants, and other bulky items. Over time the thought is to maybe use this other space for a second compost area. Let’s see how thing work out.

There was a cost to all this, the aforementioned posts and cement, but the parts that I found I had to shell out the most for was the guttering and pipe work to direct the water into the butt. If you want to do the same I understand that not everyone will have a dilapidated shed to reuse but, after the event, I have seen lots of materials that I could have used for free, including guttering on Facebook market place. So, if you want to something similar can I suggest you learn from my experience and look there first.

At the AGM, Louise from WHBC also mentioned that water bills are their largest single expense for allotments is for water supplies, and that the budget is regularly exceeded. Installations such as mine will help to reduce these costs, and reduce the risk that these costs may be passed onto plot-holders in future

(with thanks to Michael Flint